What I look for when selecting vintage jewelry for Donna Dorée
I regularly purchase vintage jewelry. This is perhaps one of the most enjoyable aspects of Donna Dorée: searching for jewelry that has already had a life and, in my opinion, is far from worn out.
This search can happen anywhere. At a dealer, at an auction, during a visit to a vintage shop, or in a place where you actually had no intention of looking for jewelry. Sometimes you see something immediately. A shape, a stone, a particular finish that catches your attention. But very often, a first glance does not mean that a piece of jewelry will actually come home with me. Because not everything vintage is special.
A piece of jewelry can be decades old, made of real gold or silver, and even have a beautiful story. And yet, I might decide to leave it behind. When sourcing for Donna Dorée, I look at much more than just age or material. I am looking for jewelry where something feels right. In the design, the quality, the details, the way it was made, and ultimately, how it can be worn.
That is precisely what I find so interesting about vintage jewelry: you are not just looking for something old, but for something that is still worthwhile today.
When is a piece of jewelry considered vintage?
The term vintage is quite broadly used these days. In the jewelry world, it usually refers to older pieces from a specific period. Antique is generally used for jewelry that is more than a hundred years old. And pre-loved doesn't really say anything about age, but about the fact that a piece of jewelry has previously belonged to someone else and has been worn or used.
However, these terms are not always used strictly in practice. And for me, the year is not the most important criterion.
A piece of jewelry does not automatically become interesting just because it is old. Age can add something: for example, you see the style of a certain period reflected, or a way of working that is less common today. But an old piece of jewelry can also simply be a less successful design.
That's why I start with the jewelry itself.
Design comes first
When I look at a piece of vintage jewelry, I first look at its shape. How are the different components constructed? Are the proportions correct? Is there tension in the design, or is everything haphazardly put together? And perhaps even more importantly: does it remain interesting when you look at it for a longer time?
I love jewelry where you can feel the design. Where someone has made choices. That can be very pronounced, but also very subtle. A special line, a beautiful proportion between a stone and its setting, a refined relief, or an unexpected shape can be enough.
So, I don't necessarily need to find a spectacular piece of jewelry. Sometimes the beauty lies precisely in a simple design that is incredibly well-made.
That's also why I'm not automatically looking for well-known brands or the rarest pieces. A piece of jewelry doesn't need to have a big name to be well-designed. And conversely, a famous name is not a reason for me to select something if the design doesn't move me.
Being old, rare, or famous is different from being beautifully designed.
Material and craftsmanship
Of course, the material does play an important role. For gold and silver jewelry, I look at hallmarks and purity, but also at how the material has been worked. For jewelry with gemstones, I pay attention to the quality of the stone and how it is set, among other things.
What I find beautiful about vintage jewelry is that you can often see very well how something was made. Small details that you might not notice at a glance tell something about the craftsmanship. The back of a piece of jewelry, the clasp, a setting, or a finely applied relief can be at least as interesting as the front.
That's why I always turn a piece of jewelry over when buying. I look at it from all sides. A good design doesn't stop where the visible part ends.
Moreover, a vintage piece of jewelry absolutely does not have to be like new to me. A bit of patina or signs of wear can actually contribute to its character. I do make sure that these are beautiful signs of use and not damage that affects quality or wearability. Loose stones, a damaged setting, a bad repair, or missing parts are, of course, a different story for me.
I imagine how the jewelry will be worn
That's perhaps one of the most important questions I ask myself during purchasing: can I imagine someone actually wearing this?
For a ring, for example, I look at the size, the band, and how the setting lies on the finger. For earrings, I pay attention to the weight, the clasp, and the balance. A beautiful earring that is far too heavy might ultimately remain mostly a beautiful earring in a box. And that's precisely not what I want.
I try to imagine how a piece of jewelry becomes part of someone's daily life. How it looks with a beautiful dress, but also with a simple shirt. Or how a vintage brooch can suddenly make a very ordinary jacket or bag special.
Because for me, the value of a piece of jewelry truly begins when it is worn.
Sometimes a piece of jewelry just has 'something'
And then there's that tricky part for which I can't easily make a rule: character.
Some pieces of jewelry have something that makes you keep looking at them. Maybe it's the shape, maybe the color of a stone, or a small detail you only discover up close. Sometimes it's the combination of different elements. And sometimes I can't quite explain why a particular piece appeals to me.
That's probably also a matter of experience. The more jewelry you look at, the better you learn to see when a design is right. You develop a kind of eye for proportion, material, detail, and charisma. It's not always rational. But it certainly plays a role in my choices.
I can come across a beautiful piece of jewelry that is technically perfectly fine and still decide not to buy it. And I can be drawn to a relatively simple vintage piece because it contains something I don't easily find elsewhere.
That's when a piece of jewelry becomes interesting to me.
The story is nice, but not sufficient
Vintage jewelry often comes with stories. Sometimes you know where a piece of jewelry comes from or what period it's from. Sometimes there's an engraving, the original packaging has been preserved, or there's a special story about the previous owner.
I love that. A story can give a piece of jewelry extra meaning. But I also think it's important not to overdo it. A good story doesn't suddenly make a mediocre piece of jewelry a good design. If the jewelry itself isn't interesting, I won't buy it just because its history is special.
Conversely, a simple vintage piece of jewelry about which little is known can be a great find. The story is a nice addition. But ultimately, the jewelry itself must convince me.
So: when do I take a vintage piece of jewelry with me?
There's no formula that automatically ensures a piece of jewelry ends up in the Donna Dorée collection. It's always a combination of different things: design, material, quality, condition, wearability, and character. And then, of course, I also have to simply find it beautiful.
That might sound unscientific, but it's honest. I want to select jewelry that I genuinely feel: I could make someone happy with this.
That's why I prefer to buy one special piece than five pieces that I think are 'just okay.' My vintage collection is consciously curated. I don't need a large quantity of jewelry; I want a collection where every piece has a reason to exist.
If it's not in, it's not in.
That's perhaps the simplest way to explain how I select.
My tips: what do you look for when buying vintage jewelry yourself?
If you're looking for a vintage piece of jewelry yourself, I would primarily look beyond the word vintage. Age is interesting, but it doesn't tell the whole story.
Take your time to examine the jewelry. Look at the material and any hallmarks. Check the condition and watch out for loose stones, damage, repairs, or missing parts. Also, look at the details and the finish, especially in places you wouldn't normally see immediately.
And most importantly, try to see the jewelry as you would wear it. Does it suit you? Does it feel good? Can you imagine yourself with it?
Additionally, feel free to ask about its origin if known. Not because a story determines quality, but because it's nice to know a little more about the jewelry you're buying.
And perhaps the most important question, in the end, is the simplest:
Do I truly find this beautiful? A good piece of jewelry can still do exactly what it was made for decades later: entice someone to wear it.
And perhaps a new chapter simply begins the moment you pick it up and think: this one's for me!
View our entire collection of antique, vintage & preloved jewelry here.